Jan 1, 2017
Happy New Year!!
Jan 2, 2017
Build Time Today: 2 hours
Total Build Time: 53.5 hours
Feeling unwell with the flu since yesterday - New Year partying showing
;)
I spent a little time doing a few pending jobs - sikaflex was put
between the chassis diagonals and ally side panels to prevent drumming.
I also riveted on the engine bulkhead panel (leaving a few rivets off on
the bottom for future wiring runs). I also spent time installing the
battery clamp pieces - the battery was put in place, and clamps placed
around it - rivet holes and rivnut holes were drilled, and the battery
floor was covered with foam tape to prevent battery from vibarating. The
clamp panels were then CF-ed and left to try till tomorrow. The battery
was placed on the trickle charger to get it to full power!
Jan 3, 2017
Build Time Today: 3.5 hours
Total Build Time: 57 hours
I started the day with installing the pedals - but before getting to
that, I added a layer of insulation on the panel behind the pedals,
making holes for the mastercylinders in the insulation... Then all three
pedals were installed after greasing the pivot bolts - the chassis pedal
supports had to be separated a bit to make the pedals fit, but I was
able to get all three pedals in and bolted tight - while still allowing
easy front and back movement with no squeaks...
Then I decided to work on the radiator area rather than work with
MC/brake lines, etc... SO the radiator was removed from its box and
placed in the chassis... the bobbins locations were marked and the
radiator was drilled with a 5mm bit and test fitted on the chassis - and
it fits like a glove! I then got the radiator 'ears' out and placed them
on the chassis, marked the chassis lines, drilled rivet holes in the
ears, then drilled holes in the chassis and waxoyled it... The ears were
then CF-ed...
Jan 4 2017
Build Time Today: 2 hours
Total Build Time: 59 hours
A quick couple hours in the garage today - the battery was placed in position
and clamp installed (with addition of a little foam tape to keep it
secure)...
Then the master cylinders were installed - front and rear MC were placed
in their respective positions and bolted on... the brake bias bar/pedal
was attached to the MC with the correct factory bias setting.
The clutch MC was NOT installed - instead the hole was blocked off with
an ally piece - I am hoping to do a different gearbox this time around,
so I will come back to this when the time comes...
I then riveted on the custom radiator bulkhead panel and the radiator
ears in preparation for the radiator install...
Jan 5 2017
Build Time Today: 2.5 hours
Total Build Time: 61.5 hours
The radiator was installed today - foam tape was applied to the sides
and below to prevent any air leak passages, and the radiator was then
installed... I also installed the thermo switch before installing the
radiator as it is much easier to install it outside than after placing
the radiator in the chassis...
I then opened the long coolant pipes and threaded them in the chassis,
marked the ally support areas, and then drilled the supports for rivet
holes... The coolant pipes were then wrapped in the titanium exhaust
wrap to prevent heat leakages into the cockpit.. Wrapping the pipes took
a while, but was accomplished with the help of the wife :)
Jan 6-7 2017
Build Time Today: 10.5 hours
Total Build Time: 72 hours
A couple long days in the garage over the weekend - the goal was to do
the chassis mods! It took a long time to prep the chassis, cut the old
crossmembers out, weld in new supports, grind, sand/clean, prime
and paint the modifications... There are three basic areas of
modification:
1) The steering column bearing: At the start of the build, I had already
modified this area a bit.. the chassis tube has been cut and replaced
with the EPAS motor support base... The steering column bearings had
been cut out and replaced with a rose joint - however, the rose joint is
metal so allows vibrations into the steering column - thus I had to
fabricate my own steering bearing support, into which I inserted a NEW
Ultima steering nylon bearing (my bearing support allows to remove and
install the steering bearing) - this support was then welded onto the
chassis while keeping the original Ultima alignment of the column in
tact using prior markings...
2) The driveshafts for my gearbox will be much lower than factory, so
the diagonal cross member interferes the path of the drive shaft. To
rectify this, the diagonal cross member was cut halfway, and a circular
chassis support ring with support gussets was welded on... The drive
shafts will now have place to cross over the chassis through the rings...
3) The entire lower floor of the gearbox area was cut out, and a
removeable subframe will be used to align/position and strenghten the
chassis after the gearbox is installed... The gearbox can now be
installed from below, rather than from the back or top...
The chassis mods took a long time to get right, and hopefully will be
the only time I need to mod the chassis (fingers crossed)
Jan 8 2017
Build Time Today: 3 hours
Total Build Time: 75 hours
Got back to the regular build today - first order of business was to
route the brake lines - front and rear brake lines were routed as per
factory specifications, and the pressure switch was installed in the
'normal' position on the rear circuit - I plan to use a pedal operated
switch for the light, so this will be a redundant switch...
Next, I routed the battery cable to the rear and left it open for final
positioning after engine install...
Then, I placed the wrapped coolant pipes and riveted them onto the
chassis...
Finally, the loom was opened and laid out on the floor. I then spent
quite a bit of time labeling each connection, so that once it is on the
chassis I will know which wire is for what connection...
Jan 9 2017
Build Time Today: 3 hours
Total Build Time: 78 hours
The loom was laid on the chassis and the wires were carefully positioned
and riveted onto the chassis at intervals - which took a long time :)
I then installed the silicon hose connectors between the coolant pipes
and radiator, and also installed the radiator vent pipe... Finally, the
horn was bolted on...
Jan 10-11 2017
Build Time Today: 5 hours
Total Build Time: 83 hours
Spent the last couple days getting the steering system installed: first
step was to modify the rack for the bump steer kit: the rod ends of the
rack were trimmed by 10mm, and then the rose joint end links were
screwed onto the rack.. The rose joints will allow to adjust for
bumpsteer later on using shims...The rack was installed in the chassis
with the help of the wife... Then the EPAS motor was installed with a
custom lower steering column, and then the top steering column was
installed after installing the steering wheel/boss on the column... The
whole system was also aligned so that the rack is centered when the
wheel is straight - and that took quite a bit of time to get accurate
...
Jan 12-14 2017
No time to build as work and a small desert holiday come in the way..
Jan 15 2017
Build Time Today: 2 hours
Total Build Time: 85 hours
Back home after a night in the desert... really small job taken care off
today: testing the EPAS motor... The wires were connected as per the
instructions, and the motor was tested in both directions with
no/medium/max assist set via the control knob - the motor spins at
different speeds so the EPAS appears to be working on the bench!
I also installed the LS throttle sender - much quicker this time around
as I knew what I was doing, and having the correct rivnut tool also
helps ALOT!
Jan 16-17 2017
No build work...
Jan 18, 2017
Build Time Today: 3 hours
Total Build Time: 88 hours
Back to the build today... First started the day with installing the
hand brake lever and cables... The handbrake is the new EVO style
staineless version - and looks very nice! The parts were opened and the
floating bar installed in the lever, and then the lever onto the
chassis... The handbrake cables were threaded through the ally panel
holes and installed into the lever, and the cable ends in the engine bay
were left for future routing...
I then started work on the AC - the base plate was installed after
careful measurement, and the blower unit was bolted ontop with the
addition of some foam tape... The two long hoses were routed through the
side pod area, and measurements were taken for where to cut the hose to
add the custom high/low AC ports... The hoses will later be removed and
taken to the shop for fitting...
I also installed the brake pedal light switch - a little switch which
should light up the brake circuit with the slightest press of the
pedal...
Jan 19, 2017
Build Time Today: 2 hours
Total Build Time: 90 hours
I started work on the luggage containers today... Normally, it would be
time to install the wishbones and uprights, but I am still waiting for
some wishbone parts, so that is on hold for the time being...
The luggage containers took a while to fit, because quite a bit of
material had to be cut away from various corners to make it fit... once
both luggage containers were fit, I marked the chassis lines..
I also took a little bit of time to make the cill cover templates, so I
will be able to work on the luggage containers and cill covers
together...
Jan 20-21, 2017
Build Time Today: 5 hours
Total Build Time: 95 hours
I spent all the time getting the luggage containers ready for riveting -
the luggage containers were drilled for rivets, then those holes were
drilled in the chassis and the holes waxoyled... The EVO also has
additional luggage container supports the are drilled into the bottom
side of the containers, and are drilled into the chassis side next to
the floor pan...
Additional holes were drilled in the luggage pods for the AC hoses
(forgot to do that yesterday) and also holes for the PVC pipe at the
bottom to allow for passage from front to back in the future..
The pods will now be sent for trimming before being installed later this
week...
I then started work on the rear wishbones... I have ordered the rose
jointed wishbones this time, so the prep work involved installation of
rubber boots onto the rose joints - this is again a custom boot I have
ordered that should help keep dust and dirt out of the rose joint, and
hopefully improve life... The rose joints were removed from the
wishbone, boot installed, and rose joint reinstalled onto the wishbone..
I did this for all 4 rose joints of the lower rear wishbones, and then
installed one lower wishbone to the chassis - it took a long time as I
still had to part the chassis apart to get the rose joint in, and it was
hard installing spacers while having the wishbone in one hand and the
bolt in the other - try holding four things at one time with 2 hands!!
Jan 22, 2017
Build Time Today: 1 hours
Total Build Time: 96 hours
I spent a little time in the workshop getting the remaining rear
wishbones installed.. Didn't take too much time...
Jan 23, 2017
Build Time Today: 3 hours
Total Build Time: 99 hours
First job of the day was getting the rear uprights installed - although
a fairly straight forward task, it took a while to do since I was
working alone - an extra pair of hands would have made this task MUCH
quicker... anyway - I had to grind a little bit off the spacer at the
top since they would not fit (off by about 0.5mm)... Once the three
bolts for the uprights were on, they were tightened (but not torqued),
since I will first do the alignment before torquing the
wishbones/uprights/dampers to spec...
After the uprights, I decided to work on the dampers - here again I am
doing a custom application: the Ultima factory supplied dampers were
sent to a company in WA to get a custom lift kit installed - I should be
able to get about 2" lift when required with the push of a button,
allowing me to use the Ultima on Dubai roads where bumps use to scrape
the old CanAm due to ground clearance issues... The custom kit took
almost 6 months to get ready! Luckily, I had the factory send the
dampers directly to WA in August last year, so the lift kit (with
dampers) was ready by the time I was ready to install it (FYI: I
received the lift kit this afternoon!)...
The damper was installed on the driver side with the factory supplied
spacers - however, I feel the spacers are positioning the dampers too
close to the chassis/wishbones bolts - the lift kit has a 'cup' which is
within 1mm of the wishbone bolt - so I will get new spacers machined
tomorrow to see if I can move the dampers away by 3-4mm... One side was
installed to test, and now I will get the required spacers before
continuing...
Jan 24-26, 2017
Build Time Today: 8 hours
Total Build Time: 107 hours
A cumulative update for the past few days - where work has not really
moved foward...
First item was to machine the required spacers to move the damper a
little to the rear, which I did at my work machine shop... Those spacers
were used to install the damper, and the new spacers have given me just
enough space behind the cup to be comfortable... Being successfully
installed, I installed the damper on the other side as well...
I then started working on the rear rotors - they were a lot easier to
put on than last time, and went on without much effort... I then dry
fitted the handbrake and brake calipers, and this is where things got
'interesting'.. I now have the following issues to deal with:
1) The handbrake caliper won't sit flush to the caliper bracket because
the damper is touching the caliper spring... I have put this question
out on the forum and to the factory...
2) The handbrake cable appears to be too long... even after adjusting it
to its shortest lenght at the lever end, the nipple end is too long to
fit on the caliper...
3) I tried to take the rotors off to loctite the caliper bracket bolts,
but both rear rotors are stuck!!
Over the next 2 days, I was able to 'solve' the above issues by:
1) The handbrake caliper spring touching the damper is a known issue -
apparently it will sort itself out once the car is on the ground, and
the hub moves away a little... however, I still cannot install the
caliper in the current situation because the spring will not let the
caliper sit flush to the bracket...
2) The factory will send me new cables as the current ones have been
manufactured (by their supplier) incorrectly...
3) I have tried everything to remove the rotors - WD40, releasing agent,
rubber mallet, bolt removal method (from youtube), hammer, etc... They
will not budge.. I have tried heating and cooling, but still no luck...
Quite a bit of time has been spent on this as I don't want to damage
anything, so working slowly and calmly (as possible) to get it
removed...
Jan 27-30, 2017
No build work as I am out of town on a business trip...
Jan 31, 2017
Build Time Today: 3 hours
Total Build Time: 110 hours
Back home today, and back to the build...
First job was getting the rotors off - during my trip, I was able to
purchase a 'drum removal' tool that is used to remove stuck brake drums
from trucks... it is pretty heavy duty, and was used to successfully
remove the rotors! Once off, I looked at the rotor and hub and figured
that the rotor had stuck to the hub on the center hole...
The caliper bracket bolts were installed using loctite... The rotor was
reinstalled after using sandpaper to remove a fine coating off the rotor
and hub at the mating surface... Copper ease was also used to prevent
further sticking... The AP brake caliper was installed and brake pads
and anti rattle clip installed...
The handbrake caliper was installed by undoing the top upright bolt, and
swinging the upright to a horizontal position.. the caliper was
installed, and then the whole assembly pulled back up to vertical and
bolted to the top wishbone again... This took time to figure out and
install, so hopefully the other side tomorrow will be easier...
I also spent a little time prepping the fuel tanks for painting - the
top and engine facing sides were taped away to protect from paint...
|